The Return & Development of Classic Beer Styles in Craft Beer

As cultural analysts delight in telling us, coronavirus has changed our lives in unexpected ways. Few echelons of society remain untouched. So preposterous as it seems, it’s perhaps worth asking: Has the pandemic changed our taste in beer?

Empirically, the question is almost impossible to answer. Anecdotally though, from where I’m sitting in my little beer shop, nationwide lockdowns have coincided with a rise in formerly out-of-favour beer styles.

Pre-pandemic, there were more than a few up in arms about the decline of mild. After visiting the two historic breweries of Bathams and Holdens, the beer writer Roger Protz published a piece warning mild ales needed urgent support. At around the same time, Timothy Taylor’s renamed its Ram Tam mild Landlord Dark, in an effort to boost its meagre sales. So concerned had CAMRA become that the organisation launched it’s ‘Mild May’ initiative; an initiative designed to rejuvenate the mid-hopped, mid-strength, once-loved stalwart. 

The similarly endangered styles of bitter and barley wine, meanwhile, cultivated much less attention. And that, of course, was the problem in action.

Beer tastes had changed, commentators declared. And there was no shortage of ‘craft’ breweries willing to satisfy a booming demand for high-strength, hop-heavy pints of novel nectar. The pale rose first. Then it was the IPA. Shortly after, the Double IPA shot to stardom. Our demand for innovation was, it seemed, relentless.

In fact, as far back as 2015, the Guardian’s Tony Naylor suggested craft beer had “called last orders” on mild. Over in the Telegraph, Chris Moss raised similar concerns. 

Traditional beer styles were out. They were not coming back.

Five years on, coronavirus. 

As far as I can tell, stuck inside, we longed for open pubs. We craved the safe cocoon of the familiar. We wanted comfort. We wanted nostalgia. Who could possibly give it to us?

Today, it seems the very same people behind the ‘death’ of traditional beer styles are now on hand to satisfy our deep urge for comforting nostalgia. 

Who knows what the situation will be by the time you read this? 

Either way, if it so happens that you, too, are looking for the reassurance of the time-honoured, you can bet there’s a mild, a mead, a bitter or a barley wine awaiting. 

Craft beer has not called last orders on mild – or anything of the sort.

Modern takes on traditional classics

1. Boxcar – Dark Mild

Probably the most popular mild we stock, Boxcar’s Dark Mild is in huge demand amongst those who’ve supposedly given up the style. It’s rich, it’s dark, it’s very much full-bodied. Chocolate, coffee and caramel from the malts give it a nice complexity – without overloading the senses. And at 3.6%, it really is a mild.

2. Left Handed Giant – Dark Mild

Left Handed Giant’s new Dark Mild pays homage to its historic brewpub site. With notes of English hedgerow berries, smooth caramel and lightly roasted malt, it’s perfect once the sun’s gone down after a late summer’s eve. The 4% ABV just about sees it sneak in as a mild.

3. Wylam – Best English Best Bitter

Wylam’s Best Bitter is traditionally brewed with malted barley and whole cone English hops. Pale copper in colour, its toasty malt complexity is balanced with notes of ripe berry fruit and bitter orange peel. 4.5%.

4. North Brew Co. – Seasons Reverse Best Bitter

Leeds-based brewers North know what’s what. Into Seasons Reverse Best Bitter they’ve thrown chevallier, crystal, munich, amber malt and torrefied wheat for a fine, crunchy biscuit base topped with a layer of deliciously sweet marmalade. An all-English hop blend contributes earthy blackberry, sweet honey and a gentle floral pine aroma. 4.3%.

5. St. Mars of the Desert – Our Finest Regards Barley Wine

St. Mars of the Desert admit they’re neither cool, nor young, nor good looking. That, they say, gives them license to brew ‘this old school, out of season, malty and rich barley wine’. Expect juicy sultanas, maltesers and even a hint of marzipan. Crammed to the rafters with barley, as you might expect. 9%.

6. North Brew Co. / Good Things Barley Wine

North’s first barley wine, brewed in collaboration with fully sustainable brewery Good Things Brewing, is smooth and woody. Deep vanilla, bruised apple, warming spices and maple syrup run throughout thanks to the malt base, while whole leaf Bullion hops contribute a juicy blackcurrant-tinged bitterness. It’s easy to drink – far more so than it’s 10% ABV would suggest.